Another sweltering Milan Spring/Summer menswear season has wrapped and, in just four full days of back to back shows, a few key trends percolated to the top.
The most notable trend at the Milan shows was a return to silk pajama inspired suits. There were also quite a lot of silk bathrobe coats too. Dolce & Gabbana was chock-a-block filled with them and Gucci wasn’t that far behind. Prada’s silk short shorts were kissing cousins to boxers and Versace was inspired by its own silk scarves to create coats, suits, and tunic tops out of the stuff.
A number of brands this season didn’t shy away from what are traditionally feminine fabrics or color palettes. Kean Etro gave fashion both by using silk chiffon for V-neck tops and crafting head to toe outfits out of shades of pink. Gucci made an argument for menswear that featured ruffles, bows, and blooms, while at the Jil Sander brand, the introduction of some vintage Japanese floral fabrics into the minimalistic collection made for a strong fashion moment.
Check it Out
Men love their checks, but this season in Milan the pattern to beat was Madras. It looks particularly enticing on the Ermenegildo Zegna catwalk in a pastel pink. It also got some cool three-dimensional attitude at Missoni, and was crafted in an abstract way at Jil Sander where designer Rodolfo Paglialunga used different snippets of fabric to construct the pattern.
Men love their stripes and this season they were, once again, back in action. But this time, they slanted toward the more schoolboy variety. At Moncler, Antonio Marras, N°21, and Andrea Pompilio, stripes not only appeared in the shows, they played a key element of each fashion collection’s story.
Denim is and always will be a staple in a man’s wardrobe. But this season, designers came up with a number of clever ways to make something so familiar new again. At Calvin Klein, designer Italo Zucchelli sent out some faux denim that was actually crafted from jacquard. At Canali, all the dark denim suits were in fact a light weight wool and linen blend. As for Gucci and Dsquared2, a bit of bleach was used to great effect on denim pants and jackets.