katya Leonovich S/S 2015
Backstage images by Joshua Langston of the Social Life
Katya Leonovich has comfortably established herself as one of NYFW top avant-garde designers, through her use of fabric and texture creating sculptural design. This season she is pushing the envelope further, working with 3D printing engineers to create a pliable, wearable printed design. I was lucky enough to get a chance to chat with her briefly pre-show about the collection and her design process.
As a designer, Leonovich has shown her penchant for pushing and playing with textures and materials, so it is no surprise that she is looking to work with the newest processes and materials. However she is so ahead of the curve, the materials she his working with are being designed for the garments as she is creating them. “Currently only the embellishments are made with the 3D printing, as we couldn’t make the material as pliable as we needed, but soon we are hoping we can print a whole dress. It is exciting to imagine!” says Leonovich.
I ask Leonovich whether as an avant guard designer does she ever finds it hard to tame her designs. Does she focus more on the sculptural side or is her focus more on creating something wearable that is interesting. She says she that she “could go crazy but you have to keep it wearable because you want the piece worn. There is nothing better than walking down the street and seeing someone wearing your design.” I then ask if she find there is a difference between the style in Europe where she lived before moving to New York and if that has impacted her style as a designer. “Of course! I find people in New York more practical in their clothes, but also they take more chances and will wear things that are crazy, which is great.”
The make up for the runway was kept clean and dewy, as to not compete with the ornate detailing of the 3D printing. The hair was a pony tail on top of another pony tail, keeping the hair back, giving it fullness and interest, whilst again not competing with the pieces.